Why Malabar Biryani is the G.O.A.T. of all biryanis
Author: Maryam Haneef, Digital Marketing Intern at Seeds and Hands
Cooking Time: 1 hour 15 minutes
Introduction
In a country where biryani debates can spark friendships and feuds in equal measure, one regional variant deserves more recognition: Malabar biryani. While Hyderabadi biryani dominates restaurant menus and Kolkata biryani stirs controversy, this authentic biryani recipe from Kerala's coast has been quietly perfecting the art of layered rice and meat for centuries.
According to food historians, this Kerala biryani emerged from the culinary exchange between Arab traders and the local Mappila Muslim community along Kerala's coast, creating a distinct style that differs significantly from its North Indian counterparts. Often called Thalassery biryani in certain regions, this coastal speciality represents centuries of culinary refinement.
What Sets It Apart
Short-grain kaima rice (jeerakasala rice) instead of long-grain basmati. Prominent use of fennel seeds and curry leaves—signature Kerala biryani spices. Notable restraint in spice levels compared to other regional varieties. Balance over complexity—each element shines: fried onions prepared in ghee, tangy tomatoes, subtle sweetness of raisins and cashews
Unlike biryanis that layer on complex spice blends, Malabar biryani focuses on balance. Having tested multiple regional biryani recipes over the years, I've found that Malabar's technique of parcooking rice separately and layering it with aromatic masala creates a distinctly different texture and flavour profile.
The secret lies in the careful selection of ingredients and cooking methods preserved through generations of Mappila home cooks. While "best biryani" is ultimately subjective and varies by personal taste, I'd argue that Malabar biryani has earned its place as the G.O.A.T.—not through loud claims or fancy presentation, but through centuries of perfected technique and a flavour profile that converts sceptics with a single bite.
Malabar Chicken Biryani Recipe
Ingredients
Chicken Masala
Chicken – 1 kg
Onions – 3 large, sliced
Tomatoes – 2 medium
Ginger-garlic paste – 2 tbsp
Green chillies – 4
Turmeric powder – ½ tsp (I used Seeds & Hands turmeric)
Coriander powder – 2 tsp
Chilli powder – 1 tsp
Garam masala – 1 tsp
Mint and coriander leaves
Ghee – 3 tbsp
Salt
Rice
Jeerakasala rice – 3 cups
Water
Whole spices (bay leaf, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom)
Salt
Ghee – 1 tbsp
For Layering
- Fried onions
- Mint and coriander
- Saffron milk (optional)
- Ghee
Why These Kerala Biryani Spices Matter
From my experience working with spices at Seeds & Hands and testing recipes:
Turmeric: Gives a clean colour without bitterness when fresh.
Chilli powder: A clean, fresh batch helps avoid a harsh taste. Old chilli powder can turn bitter.
Coriander powder: Loses smell fast—fresh powder works better. This is one spice where freshness makes a noticeable difference.
Garam masala: Should add flavour, not overpower the dish.
Whole spices: These give the biryani its main aroma during rice cooking.
I use Seeds & Hands for most spices because they stay fresh longer and I have access to them through work, but any good-quality, fresh spice is fine. The key is freshness—check expiration dates and store spices in airtight containers.
How to Make It
Step 1: Prepare the Chicken (20 minutes)
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Heat the ghee and fry the onions until golden (this takes 12-15 minutes—don't rush it)
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Add ginger-garlic paste and green chillies, sauté for 2 minutes
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Add tomatoes and cook until soft and oil separates (5-7 minutes)
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Add the spice powders and salt, and cook for 2 minutes
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Add chicken and cook until soft and coated well (10-12 minutes)
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Add mint and coriander at the end
Step 2: Cook the Rice (15 minutes)
- Wash and soak rice for 15 minutes
- Boil water with salt and whole spices
- Add rice and cook until 90% done (rice should still have a slight bite when pressed between fingers)
- Drain and keep aside
- Drizzle 1 tbsp ghee over the drained rice
Step 3: Layering (30 minutes)
- Add a little ghee to a heavy pot
- Add a layer of chicken, then rice
- Add fried onions + coriander + mint
- Repeat the layers
- Add saffron milk if using
- Drizzle the remaining ghee on top
- Cover with foil, then lid (seals in steam)
- Heat on high flame for 2 minutes until steam builds
- Reduce to the lowest possible flame
- Cook for 20 minutes without opening
- Turn off the heat and let it rest for 10 minutes
Critical: Keep the flame low during dum cooking. High heat burns the bottom and leaves the top undercooked.
